The Sweetness of Atelier Inès Arts and Suites

The first pleasant shock is the house with the sculptures, the large mirrors and the bright, high-ceilinged rooms, the generous bathrooms and the high windows to a garden surrounded by old Naples. This striking contrast between in and out is probably one of the most captivating aspects of the Atelier Inès Arts and Studios. The other fascinating element is Inès herself. An artist from Tunisia, who came to Naples a few years back, she felt that this was her home and decided to stay. A little later, through some friends she met the artist Vincenzo Oste, the son of sculptor Annibale Oste. They fell in love, got married and gave birth to a boy and a girl. When her father-in-law passed away, Inès and Vincenzo came up with a shared vision. They turned Annibale’s home into a guesthouse. “At the beginning we had just 3 rooms and we were only open to artists—to come here and work on their art projects or do some training with Vincenzo, who is an artist and designer. Then slowly we saw that more people, not just artists, were interested in sharing our work. So when the chance came up, we bought the upper floors from his aunts and now we have nine rooms”.

In the front yard, Vincenzo still has his workshop and Inès keeps her own small studio where she designs and exhibits original jewellery.

The Atelier Inès Arts and Suites is just what its name suggests: a bohemian place with lots of sculptures and handmade furniture that turns the guests’ sojourn into an artistic experience.

“This courtyard used to be an open-air cinema and theatre between 1900 and 1920. My husband’s grandfather had emigrated to Brooklyn and worked as a carpenter, but he decided to come back and do the same job here. He bought the land and built this villa. Upstairs was the family residence; downstairs, where we have now our studios was where wood was sold. This is a line of work that still exists in the family, since my husband’s cousin still sells wood. Then, in the 80s, it became the studio of my father-in-law, Annibale. Most of the pieces exhibited here are unique pieces made by Annibale Oste”.

As she talks and shows me around the villa, I take in the impressive sculptures but also the mirrors, the ceramic bases of the tables in the breakfast room, the striking napkin rings, the ceramic tiles in the bathroom, the unique handles for the bath towels and the imposing large sculpture above the bed where I am going to sleep; the fishes’ perpetual dance. Everything, she tells me, has been made in the garden workshop. I follow Inès from one room to the next, fascinated as each one is different. The surprise comes at the end, when we descend to the basement where I discover the wine cellar and suddenly feel I am in Heaven. Hundreds of wines from all over Italy are resting here at a steady cool temperature. “Any guest can come down here and pick their own wine”, says Inès with a smile, and then I notice that indeed every bottle carries a price tag. A great idea, and I wonder if any of the art in the house is for sale, too. “They are not for sale, but many of those who come here see something they like, and keep saying ‘wow, we didn’t expect this. It’s beautiful. It’s amazing’… like that couple, who liked everything they saw and they ended up buying a sculpture that now adorns their house in Colorado”.

The Atelier is for people who love contemporary art and appreciate contrasts. It is a refuge in the heart of Sanità, the old historic centre of Naples. Almost everything is within walking distance. Over the following days, the noiseless Ravi from Sri Lanka will be emerging as if by magic every time I need help or some information. I learn that he has managed to buy some land back home, and dreams of building some bungalows there. When he does, I am sure that his guests will be enjoying the best level of hospitality, the same as here at the Atelier Inès.

I sit in the breakfast room talking with Robin, an American woman who is staying for just two nights before leaving for a walking excursion to a health retreat outside Naples. I am sure it will be magical but I do not envy her in the least, as I would find it hard to leave this place. Arturo, who comes from Mexico, serves us everything we request for breakfast, and he is also an actor and a yoga trainer. If I get uneasy about eating pizzas and neglecting my body, I can ask him for a yoga session to put me right; for now, I make good use of his knowledge and his willingness to help. He tells me that if I want to take good photos I should go to the Spanish quarter; I ask him about the best restaurants in the area, and he gives me a couple of names. As I plan my day, I watch the shadows formed by the leaves of lemon, orange and citrus trees in the back yard. For a while, everything seems to stop. Time does not matter, and I am in this calm Zen state. Armed with this feeling of the eternal, I shall shortly go out to conquer Naples.

Alkyoni Roilou